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 Not sure if it is for you? Straight answers to the most commonly asked questions about your hair.
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How can I dry my hair without damaging it?
I have fine hair, how do I style with volume?
Is a layered haircut going to give more volume to my hair?
How do you make curly hair?
Which haircut should I choose for my thick hair?
How can I add more movement to long hair?

How do you dry natural curly hair?
How can I Set my hair using Velcro rollers?















How can I dry my hair without damaging it?

Hair health relates very much to moisture. When moisture in the hair is reduced by many factors like aggressive washing, technical treatments and hair drying, to name a few, then we start to talk about damaging the hair. Now days there are many professional treatments, high quality professional products, and tools, that it should not be very difficult to achieve and maintain beautiful, healthy hair. However, it is not just important what you do, but also the way you do it can make all the difference. In my years of experience, I have seen beautiful hair and damaged hair all with the use of the same products and come up with the conclusion that clients need to be educated on how to use the right tools and products to achieve the best result, rather than just sold it and left with thousand of dilemmas.
Over use of hairdryer heat, without protecting and moisturising products surely will lead to dry and brittle hair, with unrecoverable damages to the cuticle, where the hair will then form with split ends and soon breaks.
The healthy way to dry hair is to let it dry naturally or with a diffuser on a low heat, which will be very gentle and ultimately help moisture content resulting in more strength, softness, and healthy hair. However, this is not always the best option in terms of style as the result can be massy and need long time to achieve.

The easiest and most convenient way of drying your hair is with a hand held hairdryer, which if used in the appropriate way should ensure optimum results in a safe way.

Nowadays there are very good hairdryers, with combined ionic and ceramic technology, where less heat is needed to dry the hair faster and uses less electrostatically air, which avoid fly away hair.

The fist rule is to use a shampoo and conditioner with moisturising agents to replace lost moisture and protect hair.
Towel dry your hair without rubbing vigorously as this can damage or even break the hair. A good method is to gently press the hair with the towel to remove excess water, and then ease down tangles with a wide toothed comb, starting from the ends to the roots. Ensure your hair is tangle free before blow-drying as this can break the hair when brushing with a styling brush.

Good moisturizing hair care products that I recommend.

Sebastian Originals 2+1 Shampoo
, enriched with proteins and moisturising agents including aloe vera and glycerine to help replenish lost moisture.

Sebastian Originals 2+1 Conditioner, a rich colour safe formula designed with proteins and moisturising agents that include glycerine and panthenol to moisturise hair intensively.

Sebastian 2+1 hair care is an original recipe of 2 parts moisture and 1 part protein to give hair hydration and nourishment.

Sebastian Originals Potion 9, is to be used as a leave in repair treatment to maintain your hair in healthy condition, or to rebuild your weak, damaged hair. It is the only wearable treatment with nine ingredients to help repair damaged hair while building in style.

Before blow-drying, the use of a protective styling product is necessary not just to hold the style in place but also to protect the hair from heat damage. Distribute the product evenly and start by gently drying your hair with a paddle brush. The puddle brush is designed to remove excess water and smooth the hair down without damage, and can be used to dry the hair completely if a natural smooth hairstyle is required.

Please visit our protective hairstyle products here
.

If an elaborated look is required then the use of a round styling brush is needed. I prefer soft boar bristle brush. Boar bristle brushes are recognized by hair professionals as the absolute best brushes to promote a healthy scalp and vigorous hair growth; however, they are not easy to use.  All-natural boar bristles brushes  provide a gentle massage to the scalp and hair roots, give hair extreme shine and avoid unnecessary damage simply because the bristles are actually hair from the boar, so its composition is the same of your hair and has a maximum compatibility with human hair structure. Another good type of brushes is the ceramic ones because they stabilize heat, and its surface is smoother on the hair, avoiding damage and easy to use.

The hairdryer need to be placed from a distance of approximately 5 inch from the hair and no less, constantly moving it from roots to ends until the hair is dry, to avoid mark lines, which later can cause breakage. Furthermore, a nozzle is necessary to distribute the air evenly and actually protect the hair from the hot plate in the front of the dryer. I often see people blow dry without nozzle, risking burning the hair just to speed up the process of a few minutes and I ask, is it really worth it?

When the hair is dry, it is time to finish the hairstyle off while being careful of not finishing off your hair. It is at this stage that most of damage occur because the hair is over dried, the moisture removed, resulting in hair breakage. For best results, after the first stage of blow-drying, apply a finishing product to comply with the style wanted, and proceed to finish the look. I usually apply a protective serum trough the hair with my ends, turn down the heat temperature, take big sections of hair and brush through for the one last time in the shape I want, after of which the blow dry is finished.

For dry and damaged hair click here
 











I have fine hair, how do I style with volume?

Get a demy-wave, the next gen perm.  A perm does not necessarily need to be very curly but can be a few strategically placed rollers to give extreme volume as in the case of a demy-wave.
This is a temporary effect lasting up to 6 weeks, after which the volume effect and movement will be almost as before, however I strongly recommend clients to do not repeat this process earlier than every 8 weeks as the hair need always need a break from one process to another.
The demy wave is a technique that uses the same principles of a traditional perm but with a very light strength perming lotion and the use of few very large perm rollers placed at the roots to create maximum lift, with the possibility to achieve different hairstyles with a lot of volume.

Color your hair: With highlightights, hair usually has more body as when it has coloured it assume a natural texture of not so virgin hair.  Sometimes hair volume is more of an impression, known as dimensional hair colour. When hair is monochromatic, it appears flatter. When you add colour to hair, it gives the perception of lift and movement.  As with an optical illusion, your eyes perceive movement, even where it might not exist.

Use volumizing hair products. There are many hair products designed to give volume by helping to lifts the roots and to make the actual hair thicker in diameter. With today’s technology and the right use tools, fine hair is a problem of the past as there are complete treatments to give maximum and long lasting volume effects.
Volumizing hair  products come in Shampoo, conditioner, gel, mousse, spray, lotion, and even masks or hairspray, all designed to give volume, easy to use and for achieving different results . As for every great results the process need to start from the shampoo avoiding to use any products that will soften the hair a lot before styling, in which case you will need to apply a lot of hair styling product. This will soon lead to hair products build up, the major contributor to flat and dull hair.In addition, you place the product directly at the roots of towel-dried hair, lifting hair with your fingers as you apply.
Try Sebastian Body Double. this hair care range contains Bond Styling Technology, an exclusive, revolutionary process that increases intra-hair volume for the look and feel of naturally thick hair.
Body Double Thick-In Shampoo,Body Double Thick-In Conditioner, Body Double Thickefy Styler, Body Double Thick Finish Volumizing Hairspray and Body Double thick ends.


Blow-dry your hair with volume at the roots: Blow-drying with a large round brush will give you a good lift. A good tip is to situate the brush as close to your scalp as you can, essentially pulling the hair straight up from the base of your head, and using bursts of heat from the blow dryer, aimed at the roots. Roll the hair around the brush, follow with a burst of hot hair for final shaping of the section, let cool down, ten unwinds the hair, leave without combing and proceed to the next hair section.
For this technique, a good ceramic brush will be useful, but ensure the hair is fully dry if you want to achieve a good result. This is an important part that can only be achieved with good practice, as  if you leave the hair with too much moisture then the style will fall to its natural texture, however if you completely dry the hair of its moisture then damage will occur.
At completion, adjust with ends while spraying small quantity of hair spray to fix the look.

Set with Velcro rollers: A few Velcro rollers will give your hair lots volume or just a soft natural bounce. After the hair is washed and conditioned, blow-dry in sections as thick as the brush and curve each sections of hair you want with volume around the rollers. Usually, a volume enhanced look will be with lift at the top of the head, around the crown, with around five rollers needed in this area to complete the look. Leave rollers in for about ten minutes, remove, and arrange your hair with fingers or a very large toothed comb. It is recommended you do not brush or comb at the roots, as this could flatten the look, and apply some hairspray.
Another method is to apply rollers in brick fashion, on wet hair and let it dry under a heat source. Then remove rollers and brush through with a large toothed comb. There is just about every comb for every look needed, as the setting combs. Moreover, the bigger the roller the more volume is achieved.
 
Use a curling iron: Because of the intense heat generated, a curling iron will give an instant lift but be aware that this, in long terms, can be not a healthy choice for your hair. When using curling irons, a good protective product is needed to avoid dehidrateting for the hair. Shampoo and condition then apply a volumizing styling product and blast dry your hair with your head down to promote volume, Than ensuring that the hair is fully dry, smooth the texture with a brush and adjust in place for the look desired. Please note that, if the hair is tangled prior to use the curling irons than these knots will break causing the hair to fall. Starting at the crown of the head, take sections of hair slightly thicker then the iron used and lift vertically, slightly back comb at the roots, apply a hot style products and wrap hair around, starting at the roots as close to your scalp as you can. Remove iron buy sleeping it thought out of the section and leave to cool down by holding the section in your ends or pin down with curling pins (this last will give more lasting curly effect with lots of volume). Repeat these on all sections then apply hairspray in the necessary quantity needed to fix the look. Let cool down and style.
The smaller the curling iron the tighter the curl will be, with the bigger size being the best for volume. 

Get a good haircut: a good haircut, appropriate for the kind of style wanted and hair type, should do most of the job even on finest hair. For a short look with volume, I prefer graduation as it lifts the hair from underneath building to volume up until the top; however, this will only work on lengths until the neckline. For longer hairstyles then a layered haircut will actually reduce weight enabling more volume, but it is necessary to leave the hair long enough to build this volume, as a very short layers would then again reduce the volume. On fine hair, I would avoid texturising as this can again reduce volume and make the hair brittle, but on thick hair, this would be a good aid to remove weight. This hair cutting techniques need to be applied in the appropriate way for best results, but in any case avoid the use of thinning scissors. I often see hairdressers use thinning scissors to texturise the hair claiming that it is a very good practice but the truth is that this tool will only speed up the service process and will result in fly away and freeze hair. Notice the difference when switching hair-cutting techniques.













Is a layered haircut going to give more volume to my hair?

Yes, depending of the type of layer, there are different types of layered haircut that can either distribute volume all around the head (round layer),promote more volume on the top leaving weight around the perimeter of the haircut (square layer) or others that promote volume toward the perimeter/length(long layers). Hair length however can make the volume difficult to achieve if the hair is too long. The best result is a combination of haircut suitable for your desired style and hair type aimed at promoting volume, the use of volumizing styling product and a lot of practice in styling with volume using the right tools. For long hair, try applying some roller after each section is blow-dried with a big round brush. For short hair, try scrunching dry. In all occasion lift the roots and direct the hairdryer on it.








How do you make curly hair? 

There are different techniques to achieve curly hair that are easy to apply but the most difficult part of curly hair is being able to control them. More and more, we see beautiful curly hair come back in fashion, especially during summer seasons, in advertising, movies, beautiful curly hair that everybody wants, but in real life, it is a different story. Much difficult to achieve in real life, beautiful defined curly hair need a lot of practice, good products knowledge, and careful tips.

There are different techniques and tools to make curly hair for different results and now day’s technologies make it easier to try or some hold fashioned ones like the perm.

Get a demy wave: Everybody has had a perm scare ones in life but now even a perm is called demy wave and is much gentle on the hair. As I explained in other topics a perm does not necessarily need to be very curly but can be a few strategically placed rollers to give extreme volume and movement as in the case of a demy-wave, aid is given to straight hair with sustainable bounce that will maintain the look.

This is a temporary effect lasting up to 6 weeks, after which the volume effect and movement will be almost as before and uses new technology products, but before this, you will probably want a more temporary effect to see if the look suit you the best and try the following.

Uses hot rollers: Hot rollers are very easy, fast to use and ideal for a defined look on natural curly or straight hair.

The larger the roller, the looser the curl. So for tight curl, get the smallest rollers; for loose curls, choose mid-size rollers; and for large waves, go for big rollers. The same notion applies when styling with curling irons, brush or pin curls.

After shampoo, conditioners, application of volumizing, protective styling product, blow-dry your hair. A good method is to dry your hair with a puddle brush for a tangle free effect and as the hair is about to be fully dry, bend over your head and finish to dry directing your hair towards the floor so to enhance volume. In the case of natural curly hair, you can dry naturally and then apply the rollers for more definition.

At completion, divide hair into sections as thick as the chosen rollers. Apply hairspray to each section and, using a hot roller, roll the hair around and set it with a hairpin. Let the curls set at least 30 minutes, remove, and style with your hands, possibly without brushing through.

A few tried and tested tips for applying Velcro rollers in a professional way.

  1. The sections need to be of the same with as the roller to obtain a similar curl size.
  2. When adding volume and movement comb the section at +45 degrees, from the back forward, so that the roller will sit on the roots adding more volume.
  3. When adding movement only, comb the hair down at -45 degrees, keeping the roots flat, so the roller will sit outside the base and will add movement only.
  4. Rollers are to be applied horizontally for a uniform curly look and vertically for a spiral curly look.
  5. Make sure the hair is fully dry when using hot rollers for maximum results.


Use curling irons: As for the hot rollers, the smaller the curling irons the tighter the curl. For loose waves, get a large iron and for medium curl, a mid-sized iron. To achieve ringlets, using a small iron — an inch thick or less — and holding it vertically instead of horizontally. Wrap each section around the iron instead of rolling it up, and hold it for no more than 15 to 20 seconds. Curling irons can dry the hair out of its precious moisture, eventually cause damages, so cautions, don’t overdo it, and use a protective spry before each section is curled.

Blow-dry with a round brush: You can blow dry your hair with a round ceramic brush and pin each section with a small sectioning clip. There are particular sectioning clips for this work that are very small and safe to apply on to hair.

Roll each section in a roller shape type, pin at the roots, and at completion apply some hair spray and let it cool down for few minutes. Remove clips and style as desired. This method is safer then curling irons but the result is probably weaker and the curls looser and more natural.













Which haircut should I choose for my thick hair?

Layers are usually the best way to help reduce some of the weight of your hair. If your hair is too thick, you can add more layers and texture to reduce weight. There are different texturising techniques for different hair type and style combinations that will cut down on bulk and will give you more lift. The longer the length, the more you will need to thin out the hair, however be aware that too much texture will not benefit as it can make the hair look too thin, loose its natural body and eventually be of high maintenance or even make your hair unmanageable. Even on long one-length haircuts, it is possible to remove weight while keeping the one length shape In case you want to avoid cutting your hair with layers. Cutting and texturising hair also depend a lot from factors like natural texture, client lifestyle, taste, maintenance, effect desired and other elements that can all be established upon consultation with the hairstylist.













How can I add more movement to long hair?

This technique is to give the hair a bit of a roughed-up, textured look. For more definition, try using rollers.

Prepare: after shampoo and conditioner, apply a texturising spry on damp hair and blow dry with a puddle brush to detangle the hair. However, if your hair is very straight, try by blow-drying with your ends and at the last minute brush through.

Style: Depending on how much hair you have and how much movement you want to achieve, it is possible to divide the ponytail into four to six sections.

Apply again the texturising spry using your fingers instead of a comb and Pull your hair back into a ponytail and secure with a small clip.

Twist each section in different directions until you create a ponytail close to the scalp.
I.e. At the nape twist the hair section towards the left and the next section toward the right and so on.

Secure the ends gently with pins and let it dry naturally or with aid of a diffuser.

Finish: Remove the ponytails and finish the look with some hairspray while styling with your hands as desired














How do you dry natural curly hair?

Natural curls should only be worked on when wet, to avoid the freeze effect. I strongly recommend the use of special hair care for curly hair, which will help reinstore moisture and enhance its shape and definition. After shampoo and conditioner, remove excess water and apply the serum. Put a drop in your hair and work it through your curls, starting at the ends. If you want tighter curls, add a curling gel. Get your hair parted the way you want, than start by scrunch dry them into shape with a diffuser mounted on to the hand held hairdryer. Scrunch dry, means gently grabbing handfuls of hair and squeezing it gently with the diffuser. Do not comb hair out or run your fingers through it, as this will create a freeze effect.

If you have naturally tight curls that you want to loosen a bit, follow the conditioning steps above. Scrunch the hair very lightly, and let it dry naturally. When it is almost done, get out a blow dryer with a diffuser and carefully finish the job. Avoid using brushes and fingers. If the result is too curly, damp hair by spraying it with a water bottle or a spry moisturizer.

Optionally, if a slightly defined curly look is required i recommend the use of very tight curling irons. On fully dry natural curly hair, pick with fingers some hair, randomly, and holding the irons vertically, roll the section around for a few seconds. 

This will give a very natural spiral look and add an interesting finish to the hairstyle, however great care is needed to ensure that fingers are not passed through the hair as this will create freeze.


For beautiful natural curly hair, try Davines
LOVE Curl Enhancing Hair Care range.

Davines LOVE/ Shampoo, lovely curl enhancing shampoo, is designed specifically for wavy and curly hair and it performs an intense de-tangling and conditioning action. Its special formula, rich in natural olive tree oil derivatives restores the natural moisture-lipid balance leaving hair soft, moisturised and shiny. For soft, bouncy and tangle-free curly hair.

Davines LOVE/ Conditioner, lovely curl enhancing conditioner, a de-tangling cream for wavy and curly hair, with an intense moisturizing and softening action. It efficaciously nourishes and detangles without build up. It improves the volume of curls leaving hair soft and shiny, the conditioner also performs an intense anti-age action through the anti-oxidant agents contained in the pistachio oil.

Davines MOMO/Serum moisturizing curl-enhancing serum, an anti-age serum with moisturizing and protective action formulated to enhance the shape of curly and frizzy hair and give natural, flexible and perfectly moisturized curls. MOMO moisturizing curl-enhancing serum does not weigh hair down; it moisturizes, gives softness to hair and protects it from damaging effect of pollution. PH 5.2 This product encourages the definition of curls, lock by lock in a natural and lasting way.

DEDE leave in mist =Delicate Replenishing Leave-in Mist. DEDE delicate replenishing leave-in mist is a fluid conditioner with an innovative formula designed to moisturise fine hair with a tendency for heaviness, and is
excellent as a pre-permanent wave or colour treatment as a porosity equalizer.

 
This product has a two-fold function: Anti-free radical/protective and repairing, as its acid PH perfectly seals the hair scales, making the hair soft and shiny but not heavy. I personally use it on all clients to add moisture and help to detangle hair.

 




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